Our quenching heat treatments will result in a guaranteed improvement of the mechanical properties of your products, as well as an increase in their level of toughness—making these items more durable. And at SST, we are highly-trained in these processes. This was one of my first forged blades and I found the hammer markings appealing, so I did not polish the blade to a mirror shine, but I used a file to cut the bevel and a rough stone (100 – 200 grit) to get it fairly smooth, and as even as possible. It is then cooled in the furnace, dropping temperatures roughly 400 degrees per hour (again, depending on the alloy) down to 700 or 800 degrees (again, depending on the alloy) and then air cooled. - Visegrip pliers or tongs
The knives I have made are what I assume to be mild steel, coming from sources like hedge clippers and lawnmower blades. for wind power generation or heavy construction equipment), clutches, saw blades, slitting knives etc. Be sure to dry the blade before it goes in the oven. Use a strip of 150 grit sand paper to dull the edge and reduce the chance of cracks or warping in the edge. Quenching is much easier, and only requires that the metal reach Austenizing temperatures and then is rapidly cooled. Forging and shaping the steal is done at a bright yellow/orange colour, 1700-2100 fahrenheit. etc. Specialized quenching treatment that is used to avoid/minimize distortion of the part and implement uniform hardening. The quench and temper process, which includes austenitizing, quenching and tempering, is critical to ensure that each steel part has the exact properties needed to survive its environment while maintaining strength and durability. Please help me so I can avoid this in the future. When the blade comes out of the forge, you should move it into the oil slowly enough not to splash oil, and quickly enough not to lose significant heat. Mentally rehearse all of the steps you need to make. So, the key difference between quenching and tempering is that the quenching is rapid cooling of a workpiece, whereas tempering is heat-treating a workpiece. If all went well, the file should feel glassy as it slides across the bevel. Heat the quench container filled with water first to get an idea of what heat to use for the oil. It's good stuff.
The quenching method I decided to use for this knife was the “edge quench”. The ribs of the clamps can hold the part in place. It is then furnace cooled, dropping roughly 400 degrees per hour to 700 or 800 degrees and then air cooled. I fear they use their heat treating process labels loosely around here. If you want to go all out (affordably) get some leaf spring from a junkyard. Whatever method you used,the final bevel should be on the blade and the surface should be brought to the desired finish. Just be careful - if any part of you gets between the blade and magnet, you can get a red hot knife stuck to your finger! The correct hardness depends on the application of the steel being treated. It is also a good idea to have an airtight lid for the container to smother flames.
8 months ago. Steel parts often require a specific form of heat treatment to obtain an increase in hardness and strength. Just a theory. Benefits. - BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease and oil fires) I did, and it saved me many many hours/days/weeks of endless filing. I have found it happens more with laminated steels and the twisted damascus types. Mild steel does not harden. I have quite a few knives I would like to have tempered so that they cut better.
Make sure you have a BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease/oil fires) nearby. I used the roughest stone I have (100 – 200 grit stone from the hardware store) to put the edge back on the blade. There is also a cool little color chart BTW a great source for high carbon steel suitable for knife making is at saw shops, or any place that deals with replacing the blades of wood chippers, industrial sheet metal shears, old school paper cutting boards. A set of quenching dies reduce or eliminate the distortions in size, roundness, taper and flatness. Every piece of literature related to backyard knife making I could find gives a foreboding note about angry women coming after you for smoking up their kitchens by leaving motor oil covered steel scraps in the oven. 8 weeks ago, I came across this video on youtube, i am also interested in starting blacksmithing/forging... and i also love Forged in Fire. I know it does happen, it has happened to me on occasion but it is VERY easy to fix, sometimes it is unavoidable. Whether it’s an engine component, aircraft part or even a bicycle frame, if it’s steel, it’s probably been heat treated and quenched. Thanks for the instructable! Now if only I follow them. During the heat treating process, the surface of the steel was likely marred by scale buildup and oil residue, so it will be necessary to re-finish the blade to the desired level of quality. Couldnt help but laught at myself and next time will wash the blade instead of just wiping it off. Dunk the hot blade into the oil, onto the regulator block for approximately 15 seconds. Quenching and tempering is a heat-treatment method for high-quality heavy plates. Then I sat back down at my computer and this was open right to that paragraph warning of the angry women of the house. Basically the purpose of this is merely to cool the metal at a slower rate to prevent stressing the metal to the point of fracture, and it also replenishes the carbon content in the steel allowing it to hold a sharp edge. Perhaps this is due to one side always being under more tension than the other due to the twist? Answer - Heat resistant gloves and face shield. During quenching process, the components are held under a controlled force of a quench die of the press. Tempering … Heat Treatment. It requires a quenched material, quenching being as described above, be taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature of that specific alloy (normally 1100-1300) and held for 1 hour per inch of material. The result is a tough final product with minimal distortion. I am from the UK, so 40°c is the temperature I was taught as a journeyman Smith. Hope this helped. Take the quenched blade to your bench when it is cooled. Bright hardening is applied to certain tool or stainless steel parts where heating is in an inert atmosphere and quenching to full hardness is not necessary. I hear treated some blades last night and they came out COVERED in all kinds of crud, would you have any useful advice for me?
I found in all my years of metallurgy experience used diesel oil works the best and doesn't have to be warmed prior to using due to multitude of additives and relatively thin viscosity once used.