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Clothing by London-based couture houses and designers including Lucile, Hardy Amies, Norman Hartnell, Victor Stiebel, Mary Quant, Katharine Hamnett and Vivienne Westwood. Opus Anglicanum (English work) is now used as the generic name for ecclesiastical embroidery which was produced in England from the early Middle Ages until the Reformation. This in turn had an effect on secular work, but it was the influence of William Morris which brought a real revival of the art. Hidden gem of a museum that is entirely overlooked by most visitors, The brocade museum might have been one of my favorite places I visited in Chengdu while I was there for a month. It's well worth checking out for yourself. From time to time we teach bespoke hand embroidery classes at the V&A Museum in London. As a charity, we are fortunate to be self-supporting and very much appreciate how valuable this support has been to the success of the Gallery.
A large number of embroidery stitches were used in the Tudor and Stuart periods, but the most common were satin and split stitches (worked in silks usually on a silk ground) and tent, cross and gobelin stitches (worked on linen canvas mesh, known as canvas-work embroidery, where the shape of the stitches is dictated by the open plain weave of the base fabric).
T.27-1975. Occupational clothing including household livery, civil and ceremonial uniforms.
On top of those two, there are hundreds more historic sewing machines, and other bits of memorabilia stuffed in. Documents show that embroidery was commissioned for clothing for royalty and the nobility, but very little of this survives.
Embroidery designed by William Morris, English, about 1880.
We walk up to a door with a sewing machine sitting outside. There's no mention of a museum anywhere. Workshops were likely to have their own draughtsmen to produce designs and numerous pattern books were available. Until around the 1960s mainly garments from earlier periods were added with the exception of the two World Wars when contemporary collecting took place.
Underside couching, a technique used mainly during the peak period of Opus Anglicanum, made the gold thread appear to be in an unbroken line on the face of the vestment or hanging, as no couching threads are visible on the surface. We hope to be re-scheduling Sarah Smith’s one day workshop influenced by the museum’s exhibition Out of the Blue: 50 years of Designers Guild inspired by the iconic Designer’s Guild fabric and wallpaper design ‘Issoria’, soon. Morrisâ first experiments in embroidery design were made about 1860 to provide decorations for his own home, Red House. Banners, clothes and accessories related to The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift. Finally we clamber up the stairs, and find ourselves transported back in time.
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These embroideries were very English in character: coiling stems with floral motifs, roses, carnations, honeysuckle and other typically English flowers interspersed with birds and beast, caterpillars and butterflies, formed the basis of the most popular designs.