As Nigel Slater observes, "whenever I say 'hold the tuna' I am invariably told that I wasn't going to get any anyway". “We had a secluded corner table, as befitted my guest and his exalted position as a ‘guy who knows Trump’. It is as contentious as the exact rules of pétanque or the optimal ratio of pastis to water at l'heure de l'apéro, and I feel scantily qualified. To put the salad together, toss the beans, tomatoes, cucumber, spring onion and red pepper together with two-thirds of the dressing and decant on to a plate.

But then he goes and asks for a measly tuna salad….Aside from the President and his predilection for Burger King, everyone’s a salad buff in DC these days.” -Josh Glancy, The Sunday Times . Delia's dressing is too dominant: you don't need Dijon mustard if you have Provencale olives and anchovies (although Delia actually uses English mustard powder).

I'm unsurprised to find that they're utterly delicious with the anchovies, capers and eggs, but I'm not convinced by them with the tomatoes and cucumber – indeed, Médecin's diatribe has given me pause for thought. Many people really like the tuna-green bean-potato mix. Time to have it again this summer, I see! I’m optimistic it would get the Nigella seal of approval! Place a spoonful of olive dressing into 2 serving bowls, arrange the potatoes and tomatoes over, then put a pile of beans on top. He looked the part too: big, brash, knows his way around a ribeye. Niçoise salad (salade niçoise) is known throughout the world.

Photograph: Felicity Cloake, Felicity's perfect salade niçoise (served, embezzlement and accused of womanising and racism, on the no-no crockery. Simmer for 7½ minutes, then decant into a bowl of iced water.

However, if you crave carbs, Nigella Lawson’s suggestion to add croutons (‘some high-end baked ones from a packet will do’ she says in Nigella Express) is rather good….and somehow fitting, and it brings the salad around to its origins…you could even make the croutons out of some stale French rolls…… Alternatively, I always serve with crusty bread as the dressing is wonderful and needs soaking up. I am a great believer in keeping these on hand.

To put the salad together, toss the beans, tomatoes, cucumber, spring onion and red pepper together with two-thirds of the dressing and decant on to a plate. Gary and Rowley Leigh use spring onions, Delia shallots, and David Lebovitz suggests spring onions or thinly sliced red onion.

One of my tasters sagely observes that they maintain their integrity better cut into wedges, rather than sliced. Drain both the beans and eggs; let eggs sit in a bowl under running cold water, and hold the beans in a sieve just under the tap for a moment, too, … I'll probably add a few tinned cannellini beans to the salad, but otherwise, it is very much like one I used to make years ago. Serves 2-4 – if you need something else to eat it’s good with arancini (yes, I know this is anything but Provençal), Chicken tagine with preserved lemons and other north African ingredients, So a friend has bought me some Cantal cheese – it’s new to me, is it just for eating or can I cook with it?…. Why is this relevant? Peel the cucumber in stripes, then deseed and cut into half moons. As Escudier's recipe suggests, tomatoes should be a major part of every niçoise – and they have to be really ripe. Anchovies it is. It only takes a minute in any case.

I’m also with Mimi Sheraton (I’m with Mimi Sheraton on pretty much everything –  see Food and How to Harness Its Power in the Deliciously Slow Art of Seduction) on the matter of the tuna. Just ask any chef. Copyright © 2020 Nigella Lawson, 200 grams sunblush tomatoes (in seasoned oil), ½ teaspoon maldon salt (or pinch table salt), 1 cup sunblush tomatoes (in seasoned oil), ½ teaspoon sea salt flakes (or pinch table salt). Peel and quarter the eggs and arrange on top, along with the olives, capers, anchovy strips and basil leaves. Thank you {% member.data['first-name'] %}.Your comment has been submitted. Sadly missed in the Escudier recipe, eggs should be hard boiled, as Rowley Leigh suggests. But, I ALWAYS do the boiled potatoes....any leftovers are happily dunked in lemony chive mayo the next day (or the next). Otherwise, speed being of the essence, the only real deviation is that I use croutons (some high - end baked ones from a packet will do) rather than boil potatoes and then have to wait for them to cool. And I SHALL be repeating it and no, I DON’T care! Cold white wine and hot toasted mini baguettes round out the meal.

It’s known as a composed salad; The ingredients are assembled on top of the lettuce instead of being tossed together with a dressing. I do exactly the same but add a few small new potatoes. Originally stale bread was used and moistened with a little water, and the tomato juice, these days a little olive oil and vinegar may be added. Rub the tuna loin with olive oil, then sear the tuna on each side.

Does anyone make it with whatever's in season, peasant-style, and is it a dish that demands expensive anchovies, or will anything from a tin do? Cover the bottom half with black olives, some pieces of red or green pepper, tomato, and baby broad beans. Gary serves his chargrilled tuna with a sort of niçoise salsa. I wouldn't have thought to do it, but it makes so much sense! Fresh tuna is often rather dry…but if you use tinned tuna it absolutely has to be of outstanding quality, and packed in olive oil (heaven forfend the sawdusty stuff in brine).

To make the dressing or marinade whisk together the red wine vinegar, olive oil, parsley, chives, garlic, salt and pepper.

Tip the tomatoes and their oil into a bowl, add the olives and mix gently. To serve, whisk the remaining oil and vinegar with the lemon juice in a small bowl and toss in the lettuce wedges. Nicoise salad (pronounced nee-SWAZ) is a refreshing, colorful salad that comes from Nice, France. Drain both the beans and eggs; let eggs sit in a bowl under running cold water, and hold the beans in a sieve just under the tap for a moment, too, so that eggs and beans stop cooking and the beans get cold. Médecin uses green pepper, as does Escudier, which suggests to me it's the traditional choice. Gary opts for yellow, presumably for the flash of colour it delivers, but I prefer the sweetness of Rowley Leigh's red pepper with the saltiness of the anchovies and olives.

Felicity Cloake's perfect salade nicoise Photograph: Felicity Cloake. Three minutes in, add the beans. 2 eggs500g broad bean pods or 50g French beans4 ripe tomatoes¼ cucumber2 spring onions, finely chopped½ red pepper, thinly sliced50g small black olives, pitted1 tbsp capers4 anchovies, cut into sliversA few basil leaves, roughly torn, For the dressing:1 small clove of garlicPinch of coarse salt2 anchovies, finely choppedSmall handful of basil leaves, torn4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil½ tbsp red wine vinegarBlack pepper. How do you make yours? Here’s her forthright opinion: “’Salade Nicoise with fresh tuna is a travesty,’ my friend Mimi Sheraton, the former New York Times critic, cheerfully scolded me after I praised Niçoise made with seared tuna at Time Warner Center’s Landmarc last week. In order to give the fish a fair trial, I shell out for the priciest tinned tuna I can find (Ortiz, which, as well as passing muster on sustainability, I am gratified to later discover, also has a fan in Mr Hopkinson), and enlist a tasting panel of less biased niçoise fans.

I'm surprised to find that the first few recipes I look at eschew the tuna altogether – Rowley Leigh, Nigel Slater and Simon Hopkinson all prefer it without – but finally, I find an exponent in good old Delia Smith, who calls the niçoise "one of the best combinations of salad ingredients ever invented".

You can choose your crudités according to the season, but, ex-mayor of Nice, Jacques Médecin writing in La Bonne Cuisine du Comté de Nice, is passionately adamant that no cooked vegetables should be included. In my defence, when I actually spent some time in Nice and its environs I realised my prejudice was entirely based on the British version of the dish, which regards tinned tuna (my bete noir) as a mandatory ingredient.

Having spent about two-thirds of my life to date avoiding salade niçoise I'm taking a deep breath before wading into this subject. The method for making these rolls (I’m telling you this for a reason) is to take a long-shaped French roll and cut it in half lengthways. I like the crunch it adds – and the simple refreshment it provides in a dish which, for maximum enjoyment, should be saved for very hot days. Deseeding them is another must, for the same reason as the cucumber. Photograph: Felicity Cloake, David Lebovitz recipe salade niçoise. Pour the dressing around and over the salad. Médecin says that traditionally anchovies are a more common addition than expensive tuna, which was saved for special occasions, and that the two would never be used together (although he admits sadly that "nowadays even the Niçois often combine anchovies with tuna"). If you do want to use it, I'd obey M Médecin and leave out the anchovies. Rub with a clove of cut garlic. I put in what I have at home from, broadly, the accepted canon, but not necessarily everything the purists would. 3. Anchovies, artichoke hearts, lamb’s lettuce or lovage, radishes, pickled cucumbers…yes, and hard-boiled eggs… can all be added according to availability and whim – the point is that only crudités are used – everything is raw, the only thing cooked being the egg. Indeed, the majority of my tasters agree it's "a bit pointless" in this context – so that's tuna out. Unfortunately, despite its success, the authentic and traditional Niçoise salad is only known by a minority of people. Recently, famed chef Albert Escoffier (who died in 1935), daringly added boiled potatoes and blanched green beans, there was a huge outcry which has been raging ever since. I've never tried anchovies before so I thought I would put a couple in. It's nice enough, but it has quite a mild flavour which doesn't have a hope against the strident saltiness of the anchovies. Put the eggs in a panful of cold water, bring to the boil and let bubble for 7 minutes.